With Chandu, the driver who never gets tired, helping me not to fall off the camel
I admit, I’m a fan of independent travel (read: travel on a shoestring) and a seeker of the unexpected, but when I decided to go to India, I felt right to book a guided tour.
The main reason was that I was staying for only ten days and I wanted to see as much as possible, without wasting time looking for transports, entrances and understanding how to get about.
Certainly, getting around has been much easier, so my first need, as I expected, was fully met, however, I grew increasingly happy to have a guide all throughout rural India.
Traveling in Rajasthan can be tricky, despite my guide’s recommendations on basic safety rules, I got sick and spent a whole night throwing up everything I had eaten probably in the past six months, with the result that the morning after I looked like a zombie.
Chandu teaching me how to eat Indian style
Although I love street food, I haven’t had any in India, I have always been very careful to drink only bottled water and avoided anything “risky”. Probably what got me was some milk-based dish in which the milk could have been expired.
Apart from that, the trip went smoothly, and I have only nice memories. The travel guides I’ve had were great, and I’m happy we are still in touch (yes, thanks to the magic of the Internet..).
Who stayed with me from day one, worried about my being too skinny, encouraging me to eat more than I could manage and solving each every one of my problems in less than no time was not my mom as you might think, but Chandu, a great driver who never gets tired. Seriously, after ten hours drive I was more exhausted than he was.
Clearly an experienced travel guide, he provided me with colorful anecdotes everywhere we went, contributing in unveiling the idiosyncrasies of the Indian society I wouldn’t have been able to capture on my own in such a short time.
Danish, proudly standing in front of the Taj Mahal
From day three, travel agent Sushila joined us. The official reason was that “she had never visited the cities we were going next”, but I believe the real aim was that she was worried about a little girl traveling all alone throughout rural India. Not sure why everybody thought I was 20, but I’m certainly not complaining about it.
In every city there was a local guide ready to take over the stint to show me around and all I had to do was follow, listen and, obviously, take thousands of pictures. Traveling has never been that easy.
In Agra, Danish showed me the Agra Fort and introduced me to the story of love and pain behind the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Taj Mahal with such passion that sometimes I thought he wished he had built the Taj himself.
Chhotaram smiling *after* the opium ritual
In Jaipur I was escorted by Bisaj, who explained me Indian complex astrology system, according to which they assess everybody’s “luck” in order to arrange future marriages. When he learnt I was 32 and unmarried, he kindly offered to find out what’s wrong with me and work out my luck. I’m still waiting full of hope.
Jodhpur was a blast. Literally. Escorted by Chhotaram Prajapat, Sushila, Chandu and myself ventured in beautiful Salawas village, in Jodhpur district. After enjoying an otherworldly immersion in nature, admiring shy deers, antelopes, black bucks and peacocks, we had a taste of what village life in rural India looks like.
The tour of the tiny hamlet started with the ceremony of the opium, central part of their social mores, carried out during special occasions and to make up in case of arguments. When everything was ready, I was inevitably asked if I wanted to try it out, and my thrilled “Yes” was met by Chhotaram’s smirk and Chandu’s eye-rolling, who I’m pretty sure was thinking “Oh my God, she’s gonna get sick again.”
Sushila, Chandu and myself *after* the opium ritual
Leaving Jodhpur, we drove to Jaisalmer, where my tour of the city was colored by the tales of Papu, or Prem, not sure. Like Chandu, also Papu seemed very concerned about my eating habits, because “not only work is important, you need to take care of your body first.” He still reminds me, so how can I forget.
Apart from my not-eating-enough sorrow, Papu was very busy all the time we spent in the desert trying to find a toilet for me. When I realized the best solution he had come up with was to go behind a tree, I decided to keep it, also because the desert is not exactly synonymous with lush vegetation.
Papu in Jaisalmer desert
After the desert safari, we “casually” ended up at a 5-star hotel, so after avoiding the tree, I had the chance to try out a 5-star toilet. Still now Papu can’t believe it: “I’ve never met anyone able to keep their wee for two hours.”
The last city I’ve visited was Bikaner, too short time for a tour, so Sushila and Chandu brought me to a temple devoted to mice: thousands of mice darting in and out so fast that at every step I made I was afraid to crash some. Like in every other temple, shoes were not allowed, and since mice are not my favourite pets, I threw my socks out after the holy visit. But I still truly appreciate Indian love for animals.
With the benefit of the hindsight, I think I wouldn’t have been able to enjoy India as much as I did without the aid of my local guides, who have definitely made my trip more colorful and authentic.
Very cool Angela! You are so right – sometimes it is worth getting tour guides, and sounds like you were bang on this time. Especially seeing as they were able to find out what’s wrong with you and work on your luck – ha!!
LOL! I’m still waiting to know what’s wrong with me though! I might need to contact him for a friendly reminder
Nice blog! Lots of interesting photos and articles to read. Keep it up!
Thanks a lot Horacio! Your photos are gorgeous!
Quel beau récit de voyage!Ma curiosité pour l’Inde croit de plus en plus! Compliments pour les photos, très pittoresques!
Merci beaucoup, tu dois absoluement aller en Inde!
So here you are…on your own! All the best for your new blog!
India. I have visited only Mumbai and Goa – it’s a huge country, so much to see.
It’s terrible to get sick while travelling. Sorry for that.
Great pics, I believe you had superb time exploring that interesting country – 10 days is better than 1!
Hi dear, long time no see! Welcome to my new site
In ten days I saw quite a few places, although always in a rush, just to see more. India is a country full of contrasts, I will go back as I want to see also other regions, and next time I’ll make sure I stay longer and travel slowly to appreciate local society more.
I think your guides sound perfect. How lucky to have each of them. Such a nice story about your experience – fun and very interesting.
They were very nice indeed, I’m happy I’m still in touch with most of them
A good tour guide can make such a big difference. We just wrote about a tour guide we had when touring Scotland countryside whose love for his country was so deep that we couldn’t help but falling in love with the country itself as well.
Absolutely, when guides are good they can offer an invaluable glimpse on their country, things that travelers, especially if they travel there for the first time are not able to catch by themselves.
This happened to me in India, there are many things I don’t understand about India and its society, but the guides I’ve had made me notice aspects I would have paid attention otherwise. And made me want to go back!
I love this! I don’t see anything wrong with hiring guides if you can afford it and it makes life easier for you. As you say, with only 10 days, time is of the essence. Might as well leave everything to the pros. Sounds like you certainly made the most of your time.
I did, and I’m sure I wouldn’t have been able to capture many intimate aspects of Indian society. It’s a very complex culture, and ten days are a short time indeed, but with the guides I’ve had I felt comfortable asking many questions beyond “tourist spots”. I’m happy we are still in touch.
Some of those “hardcore” travelers look down on tours/guides, but they can be great! I should have done that for Agra Fort. Felt like I missed a lot of the detail and history. You look so happy in your pics.
I *am* very happy
The guide I had for Red Fort and Taj was super lovely, and SO passionate, he adores his Taj! I don’t book tours very often, I do when I feel I’m not able to appreciate places well enough, and this is what I felt for India. I’m more than happy I did so, and I don’t regret a single minute. Yes, sometimes local guides are important, and if they are good, they definitely give your trip a boost 
Checking out India the way you have looks like it kicks major ass.
lol thanks! It was beautiful indeed
Its always better to have a travel guide as they can guide you to all interesting places around.
True, and they can help you better understand the local culture.
Nice rural images. Thanks for sharing. But 10 days tour is very less. Anyways, better than no travel. Keep traveling. Keep writing.
Nice one Angela! I think by meeting the people of the place you’re visiting will definitely give you a greater insight to what you are seeing/doing. I hope Leila and I were good guides here in Lebanon. Oh and Abou Mohammed too!! Also, I need the stars analyzed for me too, it looks like it’s going to be a while
You were great guides Salam, the best way to visit a country is with its locals, I wouldn’t have absorbed as much of Lebanese society and mentality as if I were alone!
Ciao Angela,
In 2012 for our first trip to India, we have opted for its softer side: Kerala and Goa. It was such an amazing experience that we feel that we are now ready to discover the beauties of Rajasthan! You seemed really happy with your 10 day tour. Would you mind giving us the name of the travel agency you worked with?
Grazie mille per l’aiuto!
Véronique and Andrea
Hello Veronique, thanks for your comment. I’ve never been to South India, but I can certainly assure you that the North is utterly fascinating. My driver and guide was Chandan Singh, his phone number is +91 9310871344, then in every city I had a different local guide, and I’m still in contact with the one I had in Jaisalmer, Pappu, his email is pappu2010sony@gmail.com and his mobile number +91 9460807909. The tour was great, I think if you call Chandu he will be able to arrange you everything. Also, the visit to Salawas village near Jodhpur is managed by Chhotaram Prajapat Homestay, you can add them on Facebook here, although also there I was brought by Chandu.
Let me know if you still need some info, I’m still in touch with both Chandu and Pappu!
Thank you very much for these precious info! I will contact you by mail as I would like to ask you something else.
grazie. Veronique